About the Amps

Dovetailed cabinets.  Dado inset bracing.  No screws – all parts bolted to the chassis.  With nylon lock nuts.  Yeah, it’s not the easiest way to build things, but I really think it’s the best way.  I want these things to look good, sound great, and outlive me.

Rear panels held down with stainless machine screws so they never come loose:

Stainless steel machine screw on a rear panel

Seamless tolex on the top of the amp so there is never a line that will lift or accumulate dirt (my build on the left, a vintage Fender on the right)

Seamless tolex

Logo secured with screws and double-sided carpet tape to ensure it never rattles:


All wood work and chassis work is done in-house:

I use the best quality components I can get for both my builds and my repairs – Switchcraft jacks, Mallory and F&T capacitors, Belton tube sockets – just to name a few parts.  Amps using a 5Y3 rectifier get an NOS made in USA tube as they drop the proper voltage.  All these little details go into making a big package.

I often tell people I can’t sell them a “new” amp.  Just because the solder has cooled off and the glue is dry doesn’t mean the work is done.  Every amp gets play tested for several hours.  Your new amp might have 10-15 hours of play time on it, making sure it’s biased correctly, making sure there are no rattles or odd noises.  I have to check everything – not just because it’s the right thing to do, but because it has my name on it.